Wednesday at AFW 2007
Wed, 21/03/2007 - 1:00pm Spitalfields Traders' Market Wednesday saw a faster-paced show and, for some reason, a buzzier atmosphere both backstage and front-of-house. Therese Ward kicked us off with a fetishistic, Japanese-inspired collection of tennis skirts and cartoon prints. Stringy socks, kimono jackets and skintight pocketless denim jeans - it struck me as Shibuya meets Streatham. We bumped into the next designer, Nichole de Carle at February's London Fashion Week. We were waiting for the back-to-back Unconditional and Ashish shows to start at the nightclub Heaven when Nichole, who was waving to a camera crew positioned 20 feet away from her, turned to Selene and me and asked us about Fashion Week. I was too busy eating crisps (having had no time for lunch of course) to talk much but I did find out she sells her lingerie in the Wags boutique and went to De Montfort University and was making an educational film for the BFC. Focused on spiders this collection has some stunning pieces with cobwebs featuring throughout. Melanie Palmer showed handmade felts including a breath-taking midnight blue swing coat with unfinished edges and a floor-sweeping Marie Antoinette themed coat. Ian Labeija's collection is rooted in excess and debauchery. Entitled Too Many Parties it was a visual feast of plastic suits, cocktail dresses with lace sleeves and mini skirts with gloves attached. Emma Kempton's Clowns and Unicorns is a dramatic ensemble and was played out as a full-on theatrical performance. Some of the pieces - a hooped skirt with balloons beneath, bejewelled tights and panelled leather coat - are really striking. The climax features an enormous egg being carried by two models which was attached by gold chains to a third model with horn fixed to her forehead. Ross Jenkins' moth eaten brogues are refreshing and although he used the Holocaust as his theme, there are some unscary high-waisted trousers and fabulous knits which drape around the body. Colchester School of Art and Design always contributes wholeheartedly to AFW and this year was no exception with a series of outfits all based on recycled and fabrics. We saw some cosmic superhero interpretations many of which were accessorised using pieces of sheepskin dyed in bright colours. Words: Marian Buckley (Editor, fuk.co.uk). Photos: Nick Ingham and Jo Fotheringham. Prints are available to purchase from SmilePlease.net. |
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I adore Nichole's lingerie! Her strappy designs are fantastic, lots of great collections on her website, the glove style covers are ace.