London Fashion Week begins!

Some McQueen tributes. Photography Laura Munday

Bora Aksu. Photography Laura Munday

Andrew Majtenyi. Photography Laura Munday

Orla Kiely. Photography Selene Pearson

Orla Kiely. Photography Selene Pearson

The a/w10 shows kicked off in the grounds of Somerset house today. Last season it was the state of the economy that cropped up in most conversations (though perhaps not for some hollow-headed fashionistas) but this season, of course, it's the sad death of Lee Alexander McQueen that nobody can help talking about. During his career as a designer he was always the hot ticket, the theatrical extravaganza (bonkers shows fondly remembered by our very own Marian) and the collection that everyone looked to for creative genius (and you only have to look at his s/s10 collection Plato's Atlantis to see the term genius is not one we've used lightly). A tribute wall stands pride of place in the British Fashion Council tents with some touching remarks from famous friends, ex-interns expressing how much they'd learned from working as part of his team and members of the fashion press with fitting words for a man who had given them so much to write about. But unfortunately some felt the need for some self promotion, with websites emblazoned on messages and even some business cards pinned to the wall! Classy! After resisting the urge to pull them down ourselves, we're sure the BFC will sort it out. McQueen was innovative in his use of technology, streaming his last show live on Showstudio and embracing sites like Twitter, perhaps the next step is to construct an online tribute so international fans can leave their thoughts on the man, his creativity and his legacy.

It was heartening to see class acts like Paul Costelloe pay a personal tribute to McQueen in his show notes. His collection of gold brocade, tweed and bronze taffeta opened London Fashion Week and the always cheerful and ever powerful pipes of Ms Dolly Parton provided the soundtrack. Lovely.

Hakaan Yildirim’s girls belonged on a spaceship, albeit a very fashion-forward one. David Walliams’ very own Lara Stone poured her curves into a catsuit complete with peplum that would give even Seven of Nine a run for her money (excuse the Star Trek reference, but it’s a guilty pleasure). This designer has deft craftsmanship in spades with his futuristic shapes in monochromatic shades creating a unique silhouette.

We've said it once, or actually probably more than once, but to attend a Bora Aksu show is like opening a secret door, or falling down a rabbit hole if you will, into his own personal brand of fairy tale. Slashed black tights and snakeskin jackets with bronze panelling add a shot of something stronger to an otherwise girlie, frothy pastel collection of minidresses with deconstructed knit panels and Victoriana billowing blouses. If you tap your heels together perhaps you too may find yourself in the midst of Bora's world.

Andrew Majtenyi obviously likes to make women look good. His collection of tailored dresses and sheer jersey smocks flatter the female form with cinched waists, flared skirts and cropped jackets making up his a/w10 offering. Focusing on post recession optimism (I'll take some of that please), his ladylike tailoring harked back to the 1940s when glamour was in its heyday.

After a quick swoop of the exhibition, we entered the retro world of Orla Kiely in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House. Maybe it's just us and our, now worrying, Mad Men obsession but there was a definite feel of the 1960s desperate housewife to this collection. Models stalked about a sixties set-up, sitting in chairs that could have been plucked straight from Betty Draper's abode and wearing burnt orange pea coats borrowed from Holly Golightly. It was the oversized bags and truly vertiginous heels that modernised the collection - much too subversive for Joan Holloway and the like.

Last but not least, we'll leave you with a video of a freebie lipgloss from the Andrew Majtenyi show. Made by New Cid cosmetics, it's got us more excited than the iPad!

Words: Selene Pearson