Photos: Friday

Friday may have been the last but certainly in no way the least day at AFW. UCreative Rochester started the show with their avant-garde pieces. Using a medley of materials ranging from tulle and mesh to plastic, we saw designs based on deconstruction and body distortion.

Italian Designer Cristiane Chaves gives us water inspired movement with her collection. The fluidity of water is found in loose-fitting trousers in black, grey and silver while the ribbed, satin shirts in cream and blue echo the wave movement of the ocean.

Loose, layers and volume sums up Alicia Stone’s collection. She uses geometric and floral patterns juxtaposing these with block colours including grey, wine, mustard and navy. “London Printworks Trust is the UK’s only open access textile print resource”. An explosion of print is the only way to describe this collection, which consists of a pinstripe suit, a black hoodie and a shirt-dress all detailed with colourful, metallic prints.

Alternative fashion is no more prominent than in Ismail Erbil’s quirky collection that looks to identity for inspiration. Conical headpieces, hoods and visors made from black VHS tapes are draped over models faces as the move down the catwalk. Dresses both form-fitting and loosely draped are intricately tailored and detailed with VHS tape. The National Service and her Grandad proved inspirational for Gillian Ramsay’s unisex collection. A comfortable collection that uses denim and leather includes an aviator inspired brown leather, faux fur collar jacket typically seen on men but re-worked here for the female.

Lu Firth’s collection of Eco-friendly clothing uses sheer, light fabrics and floral detailing. Hitting home the idea of recycling, she offers a pleated, knee-length skirt made from Tesco shopping bags. The timeless LBD is the garment of choice re-worked by Waltham Forest College. Showcasing a dress for every occasion from cocktail to mini, avant-garde to daytime, sculptural to evening.

“The Thousandth Man” explores the functionality of male clothing. Grace Maran fuses concepts of the male from explorer to sports with the modern to give us a collection of garments. Hooded jackets and rainproof trousers are teamed with wool, knee-length socks.

Sahhara’s collection of exotic swimwear is not for the faint hearted. Entitled 'Goddess' it features sexy one-pieces detailed with gold tassels and metallic beads. Lace and leather combine to create a confident collection that oozes sex appeal. Louise Crockett’s Victorian-inspired collection includes playful detailing in the form of black, horse silhouette cut outs. Using wool, leather and sheer fabrics, there are dresses in warm tones including brown and forest green.

Playing with the idea of shapes, Joanna Tulej delivered a collection that showcases strong, square shoulder detailing juxtaposed with loose sheer and satin fabrics. The inspiration comes from chess and ideas of control. TRAIDremade “works to fight global poverty through its clothes recycling and environmental activities in the UK”. Showcasing a collection of wearable well made garments including a blue and white pinstriped halter dress.

The final collection was from Chelsea College of art and design. A funky mix that ranges from cocktail dresses to insane headwear, from geometric detailing to floral rosettes. All in all a very fitting end to AFW.

Words: Peig Meehan.
Photos: Benjamin Glean.