Photos: Tuesday

Tuesday at AFW began with Hackney Community College showcasing purple and midnight blue velvet trenches inspired by Gothic Barcelona. Architectural collars are contrasted with puffball sleeves, while the bright and colourful silk lining works to enhance the rich, velvet tones of the outer coat. The 1950’s proved influential for three designers, each interpreting this era in their own unique way. Lyndsey Cottingham’s collection consists of pleated, knee-length skirts and dresses as well as belly tops and shirt dresses and plays with the idea of the innocence of the 50’s, using white as a block colour and adding a modern twist through detailing including puffball sleeves, which appear separate to the garment but are attached by buttons at the elbow. Nelly George Hipkin drew inspiration from 50’s male style icons. Colour and vibrancy are very much at the heart of this collection: black and white polka dot waistcoats are teamed with electric pink and lime green stripped skinny trousers. PVC trench coats in orange appear side-by-side with pink short-sleeved shirts.

The 'Hello Sailor!' collection by Debra Smitham and Jessica Kielen is inspired by sailor tattoos and screams fun. Dorothy “click my heels three times” shoes are teamed with electric blue sailor hats and go hand-in-hand with oversized anchor and heart-shaped necklaces. The attention to detail is particularly impressive: cream, long-sleeved shirts covered in red hearts had giant bows attached on the back while puffball skirts and shorts had colourful detailing including sailor staples like the sparrow making an appearance. Debra describes the collection as “bright and kitsch” and cites Cornwall as inspiration.

Penny Baker's collection takes us into the future looking at the distortion of the silhouette. Resembling futuristic sportswear, garments include a swimsuit in vibrant orange with pastel blue puffball sleeves and a black collar as well as a grey/silver, black and orange jumpsuit with cut-away detailing at the midriff and a lime green puffball collar, which extended to almost floor length.

70’s rock 'n' roll as well as pirates and army surplus inspired John Maines' collection. Tartan three-quarter length trousers are teamed with wine slouched boots and seemingly simple grey T-shirts, with zip details. A pair of grey trousers at the end of the collection is note-worthy with a baggy, harem inspired crotch. Italian designers Chiara Baldini and Valeria Franceschini of 'Fuck You Very Much' took their inspiration from ancient Crete and delivered simple dresses in block colours accented with graphics resembling sound waves. Their final piece consisted of a dress and bolero of patchworks from the previous garments was modelled by a bare breasted, Medusa-style model brandishing a snake in each hand.

Laura Perry offered us casual comfort with her relaxed collection. Mustard, navy and forest green are the predominant colours which appear in harem pants, baggy shorts and slouchy jumpers. Sarah Punter gave us 'Dress/Undress', a collection of garments which consists of black shirts shredded in the front to reveal bronzed PVC bandeau tops underneath. Using fringing and cutout details, the collection shows the duality of exposing whilst still concealing. Kirsty Spencer looks to sustainable fashion for inspiration and delivered a collection made exclusively from organic fabrics, there is a minimalist Japanese feel here and Spencer contrasts grey and black cotton with bright silk embellishment. Cooltan Arts gave us 'Credit Crunch Couture' drawing inspiration from the idea of 'make do and mend'. This collection consists of pastel colours and tye dye and incorporates skinny jeans, an African headdress and a Grecian holiday-inspired dress showing that make do and mend can apply to any style.

The catwalk show ended with Newham College’s re-working of the white shirt. All the shirts have been ethically sourced and the collection features waistcoat and pleating inspired shirts, Dracula-style collared shirts and Victorian shirts.

Words: Peig Meehan
Photos: Benjamin Glean.