DAY ONE LFW: Smiles and Sequins
Caroline Charles
Caroline Charles
Caroline Charles
Julia Smith
Caroline Charles
Studio 805
Caroline Charles
Studio 805
Caroline Charles
migh-T
Caroline Charles
And so we're off. Day one of the a/w 2009 collections in London was a jolly affair. It seems that London's finest are doing their damnedest to put a smile on our faces and make us forget about all this fiscal doom and gloom. Ah, the fleeting joy of escapism.
As ever, LFW is expertly timed to coincide with school holidays (though to be fair, not British half term) so it was a fight for the pavement between dinosaur aficionados and fashiony types. Though we're fond of a good fossil, we opted for Caroline Charles' show on the brand spanking new BFC catwalk.
The vibe at Caroline Charles was fun 40s, meaning the decade and not the big 4-0. The models echoed earthy land girls sidling along with bundles of wheat and baskets of apples tucked into the crook of their arm. In place of moody power struts were playful smiles; in place of a club stomper, a retro tune with tales of bluebirds and sunshine. Enough to melt even the stoniest of hearts.
Next up was a double bill at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The venue is buzzing this season with crowds getting bigger and shows getting slicker. Julia Smith kicked off proceedings with ethical womenswear that had bite. This collection could have marched straight off the catwalk onto the streets: effortless pieces with nifty detailing, ready to be worn. KANGst is Korean Jade Kang who seemed to have asymmetric tailoring down pat. We liked what we saw, but due to a late start there was no other option but to bail and hotfoot it over to the Hippodrome for Ashish with thoughts of sequins in our heads.
After a Piccadilly Line adventure, and the search for the stage door we arrived just in time to see a trapeze artist dangling precariously in a position not meant for the human form, but impressive nonetheless. But enough of this circus nonsense, we came to see sequins and sequins we saw. If you thought Ashish had used the humble sequin in all its possible incarnations then you would be wrong – this season we had giraffe print, American flag shorts, and Christmas jumpers like the one your granny bought you, but given the Ashish treatment and transformed into shimmering disco numbers. The collection was truly a feast for the eyes and the FUK approved V.V Brown brought down the house with her unique sound, but luckily for all involved, not the trapeze artist.
Back at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout we negotiated Kling by Kling's bold, graphic presentation, eyed up the helium balloons and discussed the merits of heli-oke (helium + karaoke) and before long it was the final show of our day, the VFS Ones to Watch. Four designers, four very different collections. Lu Flux was the second ethical designer of the day and brought her unique brand of eccentric picnicker to the catwalk. Dungarees with a bear face are perhaps the most smile inducing clothes ever to grace a catwalk. That is until migh-T then debuted koala print t-shirts. Created by Japanese CSM graduate Kumiko Watari, her migh-T prints are packed with galleons, palm trees and trinkets that make you think of far-away places. Why wear stripes or spots when patterns can be this exciting?
Studio 805 is Bannister and he's inspired by gaffer tape, WW1 dazzle warships, 90-degree angles and camouflage that somehow translates perfectly into his barmy collection. A mixture of exaggerated tailoring, manipulated sportswear and an abundance of red (including slightly sinister red contact lenses). The garments had the gimmick to genius balance just right. Last but certainly not least, Alice Palmer's knits cast a strong contrast against the previous offerings. The Royal College of Art graduate pinned and tucked her knitwear to create unique shapes in the silhouette and the surface. Sombre colours set her apart from her Ones To Watch contemporaries but the medieval-like designs packed just as much punch. After 6 seasons showcasing new and up-and-coming talents who better than the Vauxhall Fashion Scout team to launch these worthy contenders into the fashion stratosphere.
Our day one of LFW was full of the vibrant colour, playfulness and endless energy that the city is known for. If the designers are enjoying themselves then so are we. It's good to be back on the fashion week wave.
Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: Kate Gillett
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