DAY SIX LFW: The Boys Are Back In Town
b Store
b Store
b Store
b Store
Tim Soar
Tim Soar
Tim Soar
MAN
MAN
MAN
MAN
MAN
Wednesday was bonus day at London Fashion Week – a whole day dedicated to menswear. We began at the b Store show at the BFC tents, which was a rather Parisian affair inspired by the 1968 riots in the French capital. There were smock jumpers paired with jaunty sailor type hats and simple sleek ensembles featuring fashion touches such as shortened ties and portofolio type clutch bags, no doubt used to transport their notes on existentialism or the Situationist movement; or something suitably thoughtful.
Tim Soar (showing directly after b Store) felt altogether more playful. There was a subtle 1940s gangster theme with exaggerated double-breasted suit jackets and slicked back hair but altogether it looked set to be worn by a thoroughly modern man. Alongside the smart tailoring there’s a more urban element with an army green trench coat and finally a blazer made from wetsuit material; a subversive take on traditional tailoring.
Carolyn Massey’s a/w09 collection combines sharp tailoring with relaxed knitwear. A skinny navy suit was followed by a knitted hoodie paired with peaked cap, worn low over the eyes. Though citing the National Army Museum in Sandhurst as her inspiration, we were getting vibes of the Victorian from Carolyn’s work, particularly the billowing capes in plaid, black wool and finally PVC with matching cap, seemingly nicked off a Victorian policeman and dipped in gloss.
It’s mighty hard to build an atmosphere in the BFC tents, especially when the people coming to see your show have seen a dozen others in the same space. But all three designers managed to bring some serious attitude to the catwalk. London is famous for its menswear tailoring, with Savile Row drawing fans from across the world. Where better to showcase modern menswear than our capital?
Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: Kate Gillett
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