Evolution at London menswear label SOAR
Ever since we happened across Tim Soar at London Fashion Week four seasons ago, we've appreciated his evolutionary approach to menswear. Now his label SOAR has hooked up with stylist Jodie Barnes and the autumn/winter 08 collection delivers original London menswear that mixes sportswear and tailoring.
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Entitled 'The Nature of The Opponents' it's all about fusing Western minimalism and, "an Eastern approach to cutting and detailing". Tim wanted to explore using luxurious fabrics in a humble way and blends wool, rayon, leather and seersucker. "All the suiting is made within the EU at factories in Estonia and the Czech Republic", he told us. "I have always made my suits there because these former Communist countries produce really great quality garments and they are a bit cheaper than Italian factories. They hadn't produced designer menswear before so I have had to educate them, but they are fast learners!" Fabrics have been sourced mainly from Lyria in Northern Italy. "Their fabrics are phenomenal. Unfortunately, I rarely source English fabrics but that's not what I am about - it's not a take on English tailoring, that's too conservative." Some pieces have been made in China using traditional Chinese methods. "Trousers are based on traditional high-waisted Chinese trousers, everything is cut in panels and the shape is achieved with multi-pleats at the front and back." Another influence is the tendency in 19th-20th century China to mix traditional local clothes with western clothes. "Also in the 1980s we had a Japanese invasion in the UK with Comme and Yoji but they've gone in a different direction now so I wanted to explore something of that original minimalism in menswear they captured." The collection includes a blue suit jacket which Tim is delighted with because, "it seems to pretty much suit anyone whatever their size. It's cut without centre darts. I wanted something super clean and minimal cut very straight not fitted at the waist." Mr Soar has no formal fashion design training at all - his background is in music, visual and graphic design businesses. "I have spent 15 years immersed in fashion," he says, " I have a visual language and now and I have learned about pattern cutting and so even if I don't cut myself, I understand exactly what needs to be done." Words: Marian Buckley SOAR is available from b store, 24 Savile Row, London W1. Prices £200-£600.
Photography: Suki Dhanda |
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It's quite refeshing to see something that makes you stop and look..even if you are not sure if you like it or not...