Day three round-up

Earls Court Arena pulsated with energy on day three of Graduate Fashion Week; university stands were teaming with press and admiring ticket holders and catwalk presentations were full to the brim with students heckling their course-mates’ collections.

We squeezed our way into Liverpool John Moores and Birmingham City’s joint show to witness a rather girlie affair with womenswear dominating proceedings. Ashley Driscoll blended textures, managing to incorporate leather, chiffon, velvet and sheepskin. A sheer blouse is paired with a sheepskin muff; a velvet bandeau is teamed with a sheepskin bolero, all in subtle shades of mauve and nude and finished with a unique accessory - sequin and feather adorned pirate patches. Francesca Kearns reworked rubber with ruffled ra-ra skirts in cool ice blue next to a grey tweed flared blazer. Susan Black may be ‘Black’ by name but certainly not by nature with her collection of slashed leather pieces in searing vivid tones. Catching up with her later at her stand she explained the pattern-cutting process, all finished by hand with a knife and ruler and, consequently, very time consuming. Birmingham City University were not to be outdone in the girlie stakes; Michelle Wetherell showed fetish, bound leather pieces in blues and pinks, a welcome departure from the abundance of black latex that’s dominated GFW this year.

At UCCA Epsom University, we had our thirst for some menswear quenched with not one but three strong collections. Claire Houston looked seaward with models carrying telescopes and rough rope. The garments said ‘urban lighthouse keeper’ (an obscure, but apt description) with a navy waxed trench, sailor-buttoned trousers and parka trimmed with rope paired with either Wellingtons or, the ever reliable, plimsolls. Courtney McWilliams created the fashion-conscious eco-warrior with her series of subtle tie-die shirts clashed with silk patterned waistcoats and dried flower garlands slung over heavy-duty overcoats. Finally, Stephanie Freude went structural with her leather strapped accessories. Her visor took on a Sydney Opera house shape for a thoroughly futuristic feel.

Daniel Bisson, a Footwear Design student from De Montfort University, transferred this architectural inspiration to his shoes. In neon yellow and silver, his sci-fi heels are made for life lived in a Barbarella remake, alternatively his men’s high-tops are more wearable and wouldn’t look out of place on the cobbles of Carnaby.

A little wander away, in the UWE stand, Sarah Wilkinson’s power prints demand attention. Intricate, kaleidoscopes of colour, a Where’s Wally of subtle details and flourishes that shouldn’t be missed. We ushered Chris Brooke, of Basso and Brooke fame, in her direction – a meeting of pattern filled minds. Speaking of patterns, yesterday's Somerset graduate, Debra Smitham’s, work deserved a closer look. Mermaids and swallows were just some of the cartoon prints explored in her portfolio.

At the UWE catwalk presentation one student stood out and that was Cath Craig with her abstract prints, pops of red and tassle details. Take note of Cath’s styling - socks and sandals, officially no longer a fashion faux pas in her book.

With such a colossal variety of talent on show we don’t envy the judges imminent decision making. The gala shows take place tomorrow evening with what will be a climatic end to a energetic, insightful and exciting couple of days. Awards to be won include the River Island Gold Award judged by model Claudia Schiffer and Elle’s Lorraine Candy, the Menswear award, the Womenswear award, the Pringle Visionary Knitwear award and the Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textile Award. Whilst we’ve got tentative opinions on potential frontrunners, one thing’s for sure in our book, Earls Court is definitely winning in the fashion stakes. The arena is overflowing with creative innovation and reiterates that ‘high quality’ tag that comes guaranteed with British design talent.

Selene Pearson