Sonnentag and Mulligan

Strolling into the café at London's Leather Market, I was greeted by two conservatively-dressed young women who were looking forward to a hot lunch. Tracey Mulligan and Barbara Sonnentag are two designers who've made it to the big time, so hot lunches are the least they deserve. After only 3 years out of art school they are onto their 6th collection and showed at London Fashion Week this year for the 5th consecutive time.

The pair met at a foundation course at art school, pursued their own interests and converged back in London after a stint pounding the pavements of Paris. "It's really tough out there," says Tracey who hearkens from some little-known spot in Surrey. "I went to Paris to look for work after graduating from St Martins and turned up for an interview which nobody had remembered."

Barbara had similar experiences in New York. "I'd come all this way for an interview to be told at the door that they'd changed their minds." Both agree that starting out the fashion industry can be an uncompromisingly cut-throat affair. You have to be pushy, hard and exude the kind of confidence usually reserved for movie stars and the artistocracy.

Both women were mature students by the time they reached St Martins and found their ages and mutual admiration for each other's designs major bonding forces. "We were always commenting on each other's designs and ideas" says Tracey, "it seemed only natural that we should combine our efforts". Their first joint collection for Spring Summer `93 introduced their simple, yet superbly elegant style to the fashion world. S&M's potential was immediately recognised when Harvey Nichols included them in the store's `New Generation Designers' catwalk show. When I asked about the title of the collection Barbara looks to the ceiling and improvises: "German woman meets English woman in South London." Huh?

"We don't have names for our collections." explains Tracey. "We approach each season with a fresh attitude and that is what keeps things exciting. We don't want to be pigeon-holed". The philosophy behind their fashion design impulses is explained by Barbara as a joint attempt to "tie into the creative collective consciousness." Although both S&M can usually be seen donning their own creations, both favour chilling-out in denim. "After London Fashion week I couldn't wait to get home and put my jeans on," confesses Barbara. "It was such a relief."

Tracey agrees, "Being a designer you create a different relationship with clothes. It actually spoils your shopping. I could go around in all the latest camels but I'd feel quite ridiculous. We work so far ahead we already know what's happening for next season".

Both have plenty of advice for those starting out; "Definitely do work experience while you're studying" says Barbara. "It's meeting people and getting to know how the industry works that counts. When we got to Paris it was so hard because we knew so few people. You'd be going around to show designers your CV and you'd be meeting their assistants. That's the job you'd be after, so of course you'd get no further. "

Determination, confidence and a good accountant appear to be the essential ingredients to a successful career in the fashion industry according to S&M. Creativity will only get you so far but when the bucks start flying through the door a business brain is worth more than a phat style attitude. Sonnentag Mulligan combined the two and the result is here and now.