Spectral Success

Specialising in simple, feminine elegance, Ghost has gone from small concern to multimillion pound international label. STEFANIA D'OUZANG uncovers the secret of its success.

UK's Ghost label has a unique fashion history. When founded ten years ago the idea was to develop a range of washable, durable clothes that exude comfort and femininity. The familiar fluidity of a Ghost creation can be spotted anywhere.

Tanya Sarne, owner and founder of Ghost, remains the creative driving force and business brain behind the label. Armed with just 11,000 UKP and the philosophy `real clothes for real women', she has developed an internationally renowned label with a 6 million UKP annual turnover. The secret of her success? Practicality and femininity. Ghost is addictive. Women buy one and then they want another, and another.

Tanya's success is founded on a simple principle - if a design doesn't look good on the majority of women then it won't go into production. She believes most women have the same basic fashion needs: to make ends meet and to look good. Mundane? Maybe. Successful? Definitely. With Ghost, Tanya has managed to create designs which sell, season after season.

Currently, a majority of the label's clients are the relatively conservative American buyers. Here the label is endorsed by luminaries including Naomi Campbell and Andie McDowell. Ghost first showed in New York in 1993 and the show was so successful the label was a guaranteed 'hot ticket' for the next four seasons. This season's Ghost show was even trumpeted as a highlight of the New York Fashion Week. This autumn/winter collection focuses on elegance (as opposed to glamour) and the label's signature attention to beautiful colour and embroidery is still very much in evidence. Inspiration for colour is gleaned from the make-up palette - soft shades from powders to mascara. There's a stronger emphasis on tailoring than in previous collections and this season sees the introduction of menswear: powerful viscose and velvet shirts.

True to the Ghost philosophy, bias cut shapes persist, enabling maximum freedom of movement and great wearability. Essentials this autumn are lifted with a luxurious and polished finish - dresses both knee and full length, high waisted skirts and fluid trousers in soft velvet and satin as well as the trademark crepe. Fake pony skins and brushed velvets in deep reds, white and tonic blue make an appearance and all look infinitely wearable and totally elegant.

May the Ghost story continue to unfold for many seasons more.