Diary fuk@lfw a/w 05

Thursday, 17 February - Natalie

Started the day at the BFC tent to see Ashley Isham. Inspired by the chic 30s Hollywood icons Katharine Hepburn and Ava Gardner, the collection was full of seduction. Overstated corsages pinned to layers of satin and taffeta in rich colours of grape, bronze and burnt orange. Backless couture-style dresses featured sequins, jeweled stones and crystals. Evening gowns were wrapped and split on the side to reveal a reserved amount of flesh.

Had some time before the next show so decided to pop into the Central St Martins MA show - a series of 19 students' final collections. Some interesting pieces came through in the show, in particular Joanna Sclater's knitwear garments were both wearable and conceptual.

Tristan Webber was next - he's a former student of my college so I was particularly interested in seeing his collection. Entitled 'The White Duchess'. The foundations of this collection are based on black garments, embellished with silver zips, buckles and appliqué. Trousers are cut to a straight leg and teamed with leather panelled jackets and ruffled tops. Skirts are cinched with figure-hugging metal corset-style belts. The collection has a distinct 80s feel to it but the use of pink chiffons and mauve silks soften the rigid lines of the clothes and gives them a modern edge.

My final show of LFW was the London debut from Moscow, Nina Donis. Inspired by the freezing winters of Russia and the attempt to keep warm, they showed a variety of layered garments, concentrating on comfort and wearability. Huge oversized puffa coats in slate teamed with polo necks and pleated skirts. Sleeves were attached to the backs of tops, and wrapped into waist bands. Scarves were and sewn and gathered into trench coats in electric blue and orange to add a blast of colour. Models had knitted sweaters tied up into their hair to make a real conceptual collection that you would want to be wearing in 2005. For me, Nina Donis was the show of the day, an excellent way to end London fashion week.

Wednesday, 16 February - Natalie

Start the day with The Ann-Sofie Back collection in Battersea. The show began back-to-front with the finalé happening first, all the models and Ann-Sofie striding down the catwalk together. Lights down, music up and the show begins with a series of bleached jeans teamed with grey cotton T-shirts. Jeans and skirts had exceptionally high waistbands, creating almost an 80s look.

Jackets had a cowboy feel to them with suede fringing on the back and sleeves.
Dresses had beads and gold hoop bangles attached along with various shaped gold buttons. Belts were used frequently as were scarves, inserted into the front of tops and coats. I personally wasn't keen on this collection, I think it lacked creativity and colour.

Ghost was next up showing a collection entitled 'From Narnia to Nirvana' a fairy tale inspired series of rich plum coats, lightweight tailoring and draped satin dresses. The key colours for this season are olive green, orange, black, hot pink and plum. Stripes were evident on tops, but were subtle. Liquid Satin and velvet evening gowns were cut especially low at the front. Slouchy trousers and dropped waist dresses with a hint of sparkle.

After the show I spot Beverley Knight having a look through her goodie bag so I asked her what she thought of the show. She said "it was a very grown up and womanly collection". She also told me that she was wearing her fave pair of Ghost jeans and that she saw at least three pieces in the collection that she will go out and buy, including the chocolate brown jacket.

She said that she loves fashion, being a creative person herself, and that Matthew Williamson is another favourite designer of hers. Oh and what was it that she had in that front row goodie bag? Sunglasses, hairspray, Ghost perfume and a smoothie..

Tuesday, 15 February - Natalie

My first show of the day is Ben Maher at the very swish Ritz Hotel. Expensive tea and biscuits are served whilst we patiently wait an hour for the show to begin.

Inspired by the winter landscapes of Northern France. Maher's collection consisted of backless silk and chiffon dresses, fitted bodices with exaggerated shapes and subtle embellishments of Swarovski crystals. Key Colours are cream, plum, red and aubergine all complementing the elongated sleeves and sharp tailoring in pure wool.

Make my way over to the Margaret Howell show, arrive at 1pm. However, the show is delayed until 2.20pm - apparently one of the models needed a haircut.

This season, Margaret keeps it simple. Trousers are cropped and hipsters are teamed with teal blouses and knitted tank tops. Tweeds twinned with denim pencil skirts made for a very traditional collection. The colour palette includes navy, purple, green and brown while gathered and printed skirts remain knee-length. Not that adventurous, but on the whole some classic daywear pieces.

After enough train and bus rides to last me a lifetime, I finally arrive at the LFW tent in Battersea Park for the eagerly-awaited Eley Kishimoto show. Overheard Colin McDowell in the reception area express his excitement over the forthcoming collection. This season, the design duo used naval and military inspired trimmings on double-breasted overcoats and knitwear. Interesting elasticated detailing was used on waistbands and necklines. Glove shaped pockets, lace dresses and contrasting velour panels. Not forgetting the blast of leopard print towards the end of the show.

Monday, 14 February - Judith

See Judith's photo diary here.

Sunday, 13 February - Natalie

Meet David at the Royal Academy and pick up the tickets. We kick off with the design duo PPQ. The show was running 40 mins late, but that was OK as it gave me a chance to wake up a little from my 5am start!!. A collection of bold paisley printed frocks, low slung skinny fit jeans teamed with deckchair inspired blazers and shirts. Next show was Sophia Malig, showing in an underground basement. The collection consisted of oversized smocks with orange velour paneled detailing. Gathering and appliqué were key features. Then we made rush over to the Sinha-Stanic show. The collection was very luxurious, with a strong emphasis on detailing. Simple slip skirts with a hint of sparkle. Lots of layers and gathering complemented the sensuous fabrics. Had an hour or so before the next show so I head for a coffee to re- charge my batteries... this fashion business is harder than I thought!

Head over to Westminster for the Fashion Fringe winners Basso & Brooke. The show was delayed by 45 mins but the crowd outside was surprisingly up-beat (spotted Hilary Alexander having a quick snooze before) you could really feel the anticipation for this show. Without a doubt this was the best show of the day. Bold prints, layering and figure-hugging fabrics.

The Team

Natalie Hines is a 23-year-old lecturer in Fashion at South East Essex College and hails from Southend-on-Sea. Previously, Natalie has worked for Debenhams, Rebel Shoes and Primark. This is her first time at London Fashion Week.

David Jones is a freelance photographer from Crystal Palace. His
acclaimed travel photography has featured in a number of London
exhibitions as well as books and magazines. Working as a motorcycle
courier in his teens gave him the perfect training for the fast pace of
fashion week. He is currently co-producing a book on digital photography.

Judith Erwes is originally from Germany and moved to London to study photography at the London College of Printing and Photofusion in Brixton in 2001. Last year, she was first runner- up in The Independent/American Express Fashion Photography Competition where the judges included Nick Knight and Alexander McQueen and her work featured on SHOWstudio.com in January 2005 and 'Friends Reunited' , a 70s fashion homage, was published in The Independent. Find out more at her website www.unpatient.com/.