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Ashish fuk@lfw a/w 06
Sat, 18/02/2006 - 4:00pm BFC tents, SW7 An announcement informed us that the Muslim march in central London had delayed the official BFC bus ferrying journalists and photographers to the shows even more than usual, so we were feeling pretty exhausted even though this was only our third show on Saturday. Whilst we waited, I huddled up on a chair and prayed for sleep. When it did finally kick off though, Ashish treated us to a dynamic display of exuberant outfits. I can close my eyes now and still fee the powerful shimmer of his clothes still burnt into the back of my retina. First out was a sleeveless black fitted dress worn with knock-em-dead red gloves and a boxy hat. Then came a top which threw out light as if it was electric - it looked bejewelled and bang on signature Ashish. Kate Bush-esque casual tailoring followed, cigarette pants, long slung on the hips and a matching pussy-bow style blouse. More pillar box red - this time accentuating a sparkling black knee-length dress: the waist cinched with a massive floppy red bow, there were flashes of red from beneath the skirt and the underside of the arms. Stand-out pieces include a blue pinstriped coat where the fabric looks like it's made from crystal inlaid into wool and a cashmere bikers' jacket. Ashish's menswear is strong and includes a well cut grey jogging suit, trousers that gave a nod to old school 'Pegs' and a wool biker jacket. Although he describes himself as fabric designer first and foremost, there's plenty else here to be proud of. Skilled cutting, elegant shapes, clever details and use of asymmetry (especially effective in white, off-centred pussy bow-tie blouses) are all evident here and as a collection, it's the business. Rich, vibrant colours (reds, turquoises and blues) as well fabric after fabric which shines, all contributes to a really focused collection. Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: David Jones. |
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