Aganovich and Yung fuk@lfw a/w 06

In a collection entitled First Line Of Defence, Aganovich and Yung's second showing at London Fashion Week was a refreshing, elegant and technically outstanding affair. We gathered at the Holy Trinity Church by the Royal Albert Hall (conveniently located near the BFC tents - a very smart move), and, as we entered, were greeted by boxes of racing pigeons. I'd heard that suckling pigs, pate and a film showing a pig's slaughter, featured in their debut show Let's Murder The Moonshine, so I felt some concern about the fate of these birds. No worries. This was a joyous, uplifting show set to a soundtrack based on recordings of racing pigeon calls. Surreal and strangely beautiful.

With an organic start, models walked beneath crystal chandeliers, down the aisle to the altar where the photographers were assembled. The first outfit was a stunning black dress coat, funnel-style neck and sumptuous sleeves, then came pencil skirts in wools worked into panels, delicate blouses and tailored shift dresses and suits in pinstripe. So many outfits stood out - a black coat with a gothic-style high neckline and bow-tie belt, brown and grey pinstripe suits with visible line markings, a hip-skimming grey pinstripe skirt with front buttons, slit and incredible tailored panels running from the waist to just above the thigh, combined with a well cut, vertical striped blouse with ribbed cuffs.

We were dazzled by a black silk dress with batwing sleeves and front slit - like so much of this collection, it looked worthy of great Hollywood and British stars of days of old. Fell in love with icy, white bow tie blouses that shrieked sexiness and a white coat with a feathery collar, three pearl buttons, pleated details and delicious sleeves. Wanted to reach out and touch the blue velvet jacket cut tight to the body with narrow sleeves.

The colours here are true to the season with flashes of luxurious gold, kingfisher blue and burgundy. Black and grey feature strongly - and A&Y don't half know how to bring these colours to life.

With a wealth of experience in production (Aganovich and Yung are the creators of ethically-sound and truly respected, The Missing Sock Studio), a tank load of talent and such an intelligent use of fabric and shape in their second collection, these two really do have a fantastic opportunity to create a durable design entity. Can't wait to see what happens next!

www.aganovichyung.com

Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: David Jones.

Aganovich and Yung are interviewed in Day 2 of our podcast series.