Fri, 17/02/2006 - 10:30am
BFC tents, SW7
In case you didn't know, folk is the new boho and Bora Aksu's whimsical AW06 collection is testament to this. Against a backdrop of silhouetted trees, the 33-year-old Turkish-born designer produced a gentle, romantic catwalk collection that was more indicative of spring than the colder months. This summery sensibility has been a key trend so far. Breezy chiffons, rambling floral prints and zesty citrus colours have been spotted all over the capital. It seems there is a backlash against black in some fashion camps.
This was Bora's seventh season at London Fashion Week and his professionalism shone through. The whole presentation had a gentle mood and was a delight to watch. Models looked like they had stepped straight out of Sherwood Forest. A green velvet cape was pure Robin Hood. The collection also focuses on the waist - belts with leather motifs and high-waisted, pleat-front trousers have a timeless feminine elegance. Trapeze-line skirts with asymmetrical hems and cobweb layered skirts also floated down the runway in earthy, muted tones.
Aubergine, army green, muted coral and cornflower blue are most prevalent with accents of white here and there. Everything is very wearable and no doubt coveted by most of the audience. Knitwear is a key component; softly draped pieces gave a nod to volume without being too over-the-top. Velvet, tweed, wool and jersey were the other fabrics du jour - all with intricate touchy-feely qualities.
In terms of detail, voluminous billowing sleeves sit alongside asymmetrical paneling. A coral bolero at first glance looks cropped, yet the back is a complex affair - ruched and gathered utilising creative cut. Trousers are embellished with gleaming, silver military buttons. Elsewhere, chunky beads are balanced with jaunty trilbies emphasising that old adage - if you want to get ahead, wear a hat!
Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: David Jones.