Bernard Chandran fuk@lfw a/w 06

Malaysian-born Bernard Chandran is making inroads into Europe and opened his first shop in London in 2005. His London Fashion Week debut was a vibey affair attended by, amongst others, countryman and supporter, Jimmy Choo.

Bernard's womenswear is all about luxurious fabrics and impact. The show started with electric blue sheer blouses, stick insect thin trousers and oversized Chandran bags. Then came more fitted trousers, a matching tailored cropped jacket and the first of many fake fur stoles - this one dyed turquoise. His suits are well constructed and sexy - a miniscule DJ-style cropped jacket which revealed the model's midriff, is combined with tailored cigarette pants and a clutch bag, a classic one-button suit jacket has wide lapels and a plunging neckline, there are exaggerated, extra long bows on bow tie blouses shown here with narrow 3/4 trousers nipped in at the hemline (sort of a skinny version of the harem pants we keep seeing this season).

Highlights for us include the super shiny blouses with elongated sleeves, embroidered panels on dresses (all by hand) and the knock-out embroidery and bead work on a velvet coats and a stand-out electric blue coat with matching suede boots. There's plenty of glamour here - floor-sweeping column dresses and truly beautiful coats. On the downside, the fake fur theme - even though it featured neon shades - was IMHO, a bit naff.

www.bernardchandran.com

Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: Judith Erwes.