Clare Tough fuk@lfw a/w 06

After completing her MA at St Martins with a distinction in 2004, knitwear designer Clare Tough has enjoyed rapid recognition. Her graduate collection, described by Vogue as "the future of British fashion," was snapped up by Browns. She also stocks in Liberty. Launching an independent label is incredibly difficult; it often boils down to survival of the fittest. Luckily, Tough (by name and by nature!) is in a strong position as she already sells within the UK.

This season (AW06/7) was her off-schedule debut. It's a 'tough' call (excuse the pun) impressing the buyers and press, especially when you've never shown at London Fashion Week before. It was a valiant effort. Yet, for an autumn/winter collection, the clothes are surprisingly skimpy - think Versace-inspired mini dresses in bright purple with gold zip detail. Similar pieces (short and tight) in darker colourways feature interesting fabric manipulation; knitwear is fused with silver wire - a truly innovative technique. Although we can't imagine girls in freezing Blighty wearing these outfits, they could work for an overseas market.

This designer clearly knows her stuff in terms of constructed textiles. As well as combining various knitting techniques (hand, machine and crochet), Tough has developed a new method - knitting chain within yarn. Oversized jumpers and tight vests are embellished with lengths of Chanel inspired gold chains. Flashy details like this add a European sensibility to her work. Essentially, this is a collection of 'sexed-up' knitwear. Lurex circles are stitched around the bust and horizontal panels are combined to create corseted effects.

Having said that, the outerwear shows potential. A suede coat (smock style with a ruched hem-line) stands out as a winner. It would be nice to see more of this next season.

claretough.com

Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: Judith Erwes.