Erdem fuk@lfw a/w 06

The fashion press (perched in the majestic setting of the V&A museum) had high expectations for Erdem Moralioglu. An ex-graduate of the RCA, the half-Turkish designer worked for Diane Von Furstenberg before launching his own label. As the winner of last year's Fashion Fringe competition, the designer's debut on-schedule show was tipped as one to watch. Thankfully, he did not disappoint!

For a new designer, the quality of his work is impeccable; sharp tailoring and angular silhouettes prevail throughout. Inspired by the French novelist/feminist Baroness Dudevant (aka George Sand) his collection references both androgyny and the femme fatale. Skinny grey flannel trouser suits teamed with Regency-style striped shirts embrace the dandy, whereas black satin dresses with bird prints are haughty and ladylike. His accessory of choice was a tiny disc of a hat in an array of colours and fabrics. One outfit, a smocked top with low-slung grey trousers, had a softer feel - perfect for daywear.

In terms of colour, black, grey and yellow dominates this collection giving way to muted pastels (cream, lemon yellow, brown, grey). Floaty empire-line dresses with tight pleats were showcased alongside full-length chiffon in brown and cream.

Outerwear also made an appearance. Coats came in varying styles - off-the-shoulder trapeze-line, shimmery belted trenches or overcoats lined with fur. The show concluded with a ghostly looking model clad in a gothic style cream satin wedding dress. A photo opportunity if we ever saw one!

[Outfits with fur have not been shown here]

www.erdem.co.uk

Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: David Jones.