John Rocha fuk@lfw a/w 06

The Rocha name is synonymous with craftsmanship and quality. A veteran at London Fashion Week, he commands a creative empire which includes homeware and hotel interiors in addition to fashion. Generally packed to the rafters, his shows are a pleasure to witness with a genial family atmosphere.

The show opened with two button-wool car coats straight out of the 1950's, followed by crochet hats, scarves and draped shift dresses. Eighteenth century-style dress shoes and footless crochet tights added an arts and crafts sensibility to the proceedings. Models stalked the runways purposefully wearing mostly black with accents of cream. This came as no surprise - Rocha excels at clothing for the colder months. He has a weakness for using dark, voluminous fabrics, particularly in the form of stiff bubble-shaped taffeta dresses ruched, elasticated and over-locked in irregular places.

The body is softly enveloped throughout this collection. Rocha has a talent for making fabric come to life by experimenting with form and structure. His preference for luxurious textures (felted wool, brocade, butter soft suede, leather, washed silk, jersey and velvet) made the collection all the more appealing.

Some pieces had a Dickensian vibe albeit with a contemporary twist. Cinder black slouchy trousers and velvet jackets were accessorised with skinny crochet scarves to keep the chill away. Harem pants also made an appearance. Be very afraid people, there is no getting away from them this season!

Tomato red velvet overcoats, pinafore dresses and full skirts added an injection of colour. The structured bags were eye-catching too - embellished with felt or leather ruffles that also appeared on the back of jackets.

Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: David Jones.