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Katarzyna Szczotarska fuk@lfw a/w 06

Sat, 18/02/2006 - 12:00pm
On|Off, Royal Academy Burlington Gardens, W1

A buzzy crowd gathered for Katarzyna's off-schedule show and what a treat it was. A lunchtime spot on the last day of Fashion Week can be challenging, but this accomplished (she debuted at LFW in 2001)Polish-born designer who's lovingly embraced London culture, pulled it off nicely. First to kick in was a gutsy soundtrack - Mike E Skinner aka The Streets shouting the odds while we witness a tailored shift dress with half-moon collars combined with blinding green tights, then a shiny black oversized-pencil skirt shown with a white blouse also with half-moon collars. A 60s-style mini shift dress gives more than a nod to Mary Quant and contrasts with Katarzyna's more post-mod, ethereal, white shift dresses with gathered details. The designer seems to be exploring the cut, weight and fall of fabrics here. Whilst the materials (wools, silks, cottons) are top notch, sometimes the clothes look off-centre. Later, Katarzyna explained to me that the collection was inspired by 50s and 60s working class English culture and she wanted to show clothes which these beautiful girls had somehow got slightly "wrong".

Highlights include tailored details on trousers (the backs especially) and blouses, cute black cape jackets, beautiful ribbon belts and grey, wool culottes. Most everything here is magnificently well constructed and really wearable and, as Modesty Blaise's mid-show nipple tassel dance demonstrated, can be worn by curvaceous women as well. Nice one Katarzyna and thanks for the Johnny Cash track - excellent.

Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: David Jones.

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