Michiko Koshino fuk@lfw a/w 06

There were mixed messages at the Michiko Koshino show. A favourite on the club scene, her label has built up a loyal following over the last 25 years. Therefore, it was strange to see Ronnie Corbett and his wife perched on the front row alongside Meg Matthews and reality TV hairdresser Ricardo.

Nevertheless, Koshino knows how to put on a show and her signature 'modern utilitarian' style was applied to jersey, satin, wool and (uncharacteristically) real fur. Some shapes were exaggerated, notably shoulders which were puffed up or inflated, lending a space-age feel to the collection. The colour palette was muted at first; delicate cream, white and grey, giving way to bolder primaries later on.

A design emphasis was placed on draping, slashing and layering. Cobweb style fabrics were bonded onto gossamer thin chiffon dresses. The effect was creative and otherworldly. All outfits were accessorized with futuristic looking woven berets. Volume is clearly back for AW06. The puffball silhouette reigned supreme as did sculpted taffeta coats and out-sized sleeve shapes. Models were urged to 'Get it on' courtesy of Marc Bolan. As they did so we saw an injection of colour. Blood red satin dresses, fur shrugs and accents of neon yellow livened up proceedings. An eclectic, pacey show to say the least.

www.michikokoshino.com

Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: David Jones.