MAN fuk@lfw a/w 06

Last season, Fashion East and Topman's menswear showcase ended London Fashion Week- this time it was the final show on Day One. Being last on the day's official schedule means, as always, delays. The on-schedule shows ran late through the day and so MAN finally started a little after 9pm. First up was Back, the second season for Stockholm-born but London-based designer Ann-Sofie Back's menswear line. After such a successful debut season, expectations were high, but early adopters shouldn't be disappointed. The show started backwards with the models staging their finale first. To a hip hop soundtrack we were treated to cardi's with towelling bathrobe belts, purple cotton drainpipes with ultra narrow bottoms rolled up (Oi Oi), bomber jackets tucked into high-waisted trousers, double breasted blazers and casual jersey joggers. Sofie's button-down shirts feature bold checks and gold buttons, and that unfashionable staple of working life, the lumberjack shirt, is given a new lease of life here. Back's addition of Chanel-style chains to the toes of Doc Marten shoes is inspired.

Deryck Walker's London Fashion Week debut came next and as anyone who has checked out his label which has been exclusively sold at London's Dover Street Market for the past two seasons will tell you, this man has got large, stylish bags bursting with talent. Highlights include sumptuous navy wool coats in a variety of shapes, tailored trousers with side panel pockets and hidden details (that we caught a glimpse of), checked shirts, puffa coats and an outstanding leather/wool bomber jacket. Subtle, confident styling (Andrew Davies) keeps fuss to a minimum here. Luminous green belts (worn over thick wool coats and jackets), Clark's Desert boots and cyclist-like headbands melded the look but did not detract. Deryck's monk-like hooded wool coat with over-sized sleeves is just beautiful and his attention to detail (especially on trousers), careful use of prints and fabrics shows sensibility and vision. This is an amazingly strong debut.

Siv Stoldal, a Norwegian by birth, presented Seasonal/Effective/Disorder, a comfy and practical collection with some great touches. To electro beats, she gave us trousers tied at the bottoms (bicycle clip meets legwarmer) grey jersey pants, blue cotton shirts (with button-up sleeves) and matching narrow trousers, navy donkey jackets with checked linings, an array of delicate knits in pale shades, checked lumberjack shirts and exquisite grey duffle coats. There was an urban fishing feel to the collection - Siv creates really wearable pieces with effective twists and details. Highlights for us are the knits, tie-bottom trousers, puffa jackets (which you can puff-it-yourself via cords tied inside) and shark tooth fastenings and details.

Finally, Topman Design, the sponsors of the show. What would you expect from a high street fashion chain? There's a surprising amount of good design going on here - with lashing and lashings of quirky styling (thanks to Alister Mackie). Proper geezer leather and sheepskin jackets, Prince William-esque Hacking jackets, lairy and just a bit scary, red tartan trousers, tartan hoodies, pencil thin trousers, Tao-style circle-of-life prints and mohair polo necks. Accessories include chunky ankle boots, white shoes, old school duffle bags, narrow pink metal/leather belts and fat over-sized woollen beanie hats. Stand-out pieces for us are the dress shirts with narrow frills (really cool), Crombie coats with felt collars and bomber jackets. The gothic elements (skull prints, dark moody jackets) are very Jean-Pierre Braganza - which can be no bad thing.

Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: David Jones.

Deryck Walker is interviewed in Day 1 (part 2) of our podcast series.