Fri, 17/02/2006 - 7:30pm
On|Off, Royal Academy Burlington Gardens, W1
Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker are a formidable design duo who pretty much represent the front line of London Fashion Week. These homegrown designers' work is always informed, inspired and now, through the seasons, nurtured by London. While it is also really interesting to see shows by designers based in other other countries who choose to show at LFW, you can't beat a slice of really proper London talent.
AW06 entitled She Sees starts with a Modish green and white striped dress, followed by a super shiny orange mini dress with embroidered details. A lime green baby doll dress was so simply yet stunning, and the rich red baby doll with a front bow-tie and mini shoulder train, was outstanding. Colour - obviously - is absolutely fundamental here and we are treated to some sublime shades throughout : luscious red, midnight blue, white and silver. There are technicolour panels (reminiscent of the old TV test cards) repeated and referenced throughout.
Outfits run the gamut of cool and casual, I'm just out and about like, to cor blimey I must be a film star. She Sees offers women fat checks on dresses, antique blouses with dress shirt details, striped long-sleeved tops which work under garments across the collection (bang on for us Londoners who don't so much buy in seasons as layer!), sleeveless black cocktail dress with technicolour details and groovy side pockets. Highlights include delicate and detailed blouses, a ruby red wrapover wool coat in and the way themes like bows, stripes and panels of contrasts were interwoven and the make-up (Alex Box) and music (PPQ Records) which complemented the clothes perfectly.
With menswear here it was feel the quality not the quantity. PPQ's signature skinny trousers combined with a cropped jacket and screaming red shirt, blue striped shirts, which seem simplicity itself, just looked amazing on the catwalk. Can a straight guy wear a cape and look good? He can it seems if these guys made it.
If you got the Cosmetique CD at the show give it a listen, it's got some excellent tracks on there.
Words: Marian Buckley. Photos: David Jones.