Fashion East fuk@lfw a/w 07

You can always count on Fashion East to serve up a helping of what London does best – sex, sass and silliness. And this season the now must-see London fixture didn't disappoint.

To the sound of wailing sirens Louise Goldin sent out a Siouxsie Sioux-inspired collection on statuesque ladies whose slicked back hair, patent leather stilettos and teeny, tiny body-con clothes were 100% raunch. Forget LBDs, these were MBDs – micro black dresses. Seamless in more ways than one – Goldin's clever knitting techniques do away with unsightly joins – the monochromatic collection combines contoured silhouettes with art deco graphics, demonstrating a great eye for print and pattern. Balaclava-style headgear adds a streetwise touch while Jet Swarovski crystals are pure rock'n'roll.

Ladies with bite also made an appearance at Danielle Scutt. According to the diminutive South Londoner, women play two very different roles: powerful leading lady and prize trophy catch. A clue, perhaps, as to why Scutt has taken inspiration from the competitive world of dog-shows. Man's best friend weren't the only bitches to inspire Scutt though. Joan Collins as the force behind a collection where the focal point was, naturally enough, shoulders. With more than a dash of 70s decadence and using a selection of satins, velvet, lame, sating and mohair, and a streak of dog fur print, Scutt sent out cropped jackets, voluminous coats, trousers that cling like leggings and hotpants tight enough to bring a tear to the eye. In vibrant colours of emerald, charcoal grey, coral and pink and gold the already significant bling factor is ramped up with heavy gold chain detailing around necklines and enormous crystal knuckle dusters. Watch out boys, these girls might just bite.

That Henry Holland has a way with words is in no doubt, that he also has a sense of humour is crystal clear. Stealing the lead on would be detractors he dubbed his debut LFW show 'The One Trick Pony Collezioni' leaving us all in no doubt that he's aware of the potentially limited lifespan of his fab idea. Last fashion week Holland's slogan tees, worn by the likes of Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon, earned him unprecedented press coverage and a legion of fans including Lindsay Lohan, Gwen Stefani, Sienna Miller, Lady Sovereign and the Olsen twins. This season he took to the catwalk with a collection that was fluoro fun all the way. To a soundtrack of the appropriately psychedelic Betty Boo smiling girls sprang down the catwalk in tees, sequined shifts and rubber dresses emblazoned with cheeky maxims of the ‘I've got more than a handul for Naomi Cambell' ilk. For boys there are neon pink undercrackers and tight trousers emblazoned with the HOH monogram. And on a day when the heavens seemed to have opened, see-through plastic macs and patent old-school Kickers are right on trend. Whether Henry Holland is more than a flash in the pan remains to be seen but for now we wish you every luck, duck.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones