Gavin Douglas fuk@lfw a/w 07

After making his London Fashion Week debut to a packed crowd, Gavin Douglas confessed to me backstage that "this is the first London Fashion Week show I have been to and it's mine!". The 23-year-old hails from Birmingham and studied at Northampton before winning Colin McDowell's Fashion Fringe competition in September 2006. Since then, Gavin has had to produce his Black Victorians collection which is due to go on sale in Yoox soon, and design his first autumn/winter collection for an on-schedule showing.

There was a buzz in the air as the show kicked off at a fast pace and immediately the influences were apparent. Inspired by glamorous women who love to travel and entitled Queens of The Ocean, the silhouettes are pure 40s, slick and lean and the focus is on feminine pencil skirts and satin blouses in a variety of interpretations. Waists are cinched and Douglas offers belts bearing his name as well as a Gavin Douglas map print that appears in blouses and jackets.

For Black Victorians, Douglas played with peacock feathers; here the flirtation continues, only this time osterich feathers adorn shoulders and sleeves. Stand-out pieces include pearlised sassy leather trench coats, sumptuous satin blouses in burnt orange and vibrant greens with ruched backs, beaded shirts and mohair jackets. The hugely talented James Kaliardos did an excellent job with the make-up - highlighting lips and eyes to complement the collection's colours, and along with the uncompromising stilettos courtesy of Terry de Havilland, and vintage suitcases, the collection delivered a modernist 'cruise is cool' vision.

This is a very credible debut and it is refreshing to have for a designer who hasn't been to one of London's established seats of fashion learning - especially one as unaffected and hard-working as Mr Douglas.

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: David Jones