Bora Aksu fuk@lfw s/s 06

This was Bora's first showing on the official schedule without New Generation sponsorship (which he's been awarded four times now) and his strongest collection to date. Born in Turkey, Bora studied at Central St Martin's first for his BA, and then graduated with an MA in 2002. Visa issues this year have meant that he designed and manufactured most of this collection in Turkey and was separated from his missus for six months.

This is a considered collection with strong leather work based on distorted corsetry. There's tan leather jackets with cool details alongside (unusually for spring/summer), warm knitwear. Fabrics include washed leather muslin, cotton with inserted silk, hand-crocheted and handmade jersey buttons in a palette of beiges, plums and washed-out blues. There are uneven hemlines and the tonal nature of some outfits gave the impression of a field seen from an aeriel view.

As well as the fantastic spidery knits and embroidery, Bora's accessories are a focal point here with enormous handmade glass bead necklaces that stretch to the knee, very cool knitted/leather Roman sandals which look like boots with cut-out toes overlayed with leather straps and amazing oversized leather bags with solid wood circle clasps and tassels to the floor.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones