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Berubé (On|Off) fuk@lfw s/s 06

Mon, 19/09/2005 - 8:45am
Royal Academy, Burlington Gardens, W1

Tracing a day of "idyllic luxury at a 1920s country house" Berubé's collection is inspired by the decade's leisurewear and masculine tailoring. The show itself took us through a day from morning to evening, opening in the sunroom with triple-layered cream shirts in fine cotton chiffon featuring Berube's signature pleating. Oversized collars contrast with delicate horn buttons and wide-legged trousers in sheer materials. The waist seems to be making a resurgence after playing second fiddle to the hips, thanks to the low-rider looks of recent years.

Moving to the lawn, the collection took in cotton tennis dresses and knickerbocker trousers, blue wrap shirts and jumpsuits in dusty blues and grey. Cotton stockings tied with slim ribbons crinkled around the legs. By-the-lake shorts with buttoned side seams took precedence in twill cottons and tapestry weaves, while cropped jackets tied under the bust and bathing suit-inspired underwear mixed traditional French lace with jersey.

The show closed as the collection moved to the cocktail hour with draped silk jersey skirts in gold and brown and raw silk dresses hand painted with silver. Nostalgia, it's a wonderful thing.

Words: Maia Adams.

Photos: Antonio@jabpromotions.com.

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