Camilla Staerk fuk@lfw s/s 06

Camilla Staerk opened this season's round of shows at an appropriately al fresco location in beautiful Hyde Park at 9.30am on Sunday. Resisting the temptation to equate spring summer with the overtly girly, Staerk sent out a collection that still managed to be super sexy in a grown up kind of way.

First out were a series of swim suits cut low in the front, high on the hips and embellished with delicate button fronts, string halternecks and and a smattering of dainty model goosebumps. From swimwear, things took a darker turn. Pencil skirts and slim-fitting shirts appear in black fabric as shiny as an oil slick. Pussy cat bowed blouses, tailored jackets and lacy black leggings complete the look that has more than a whiff of the dominatrix about it. Even when Staerk showed summery dresses, these were printed with ominous silhouetted birds circling against the pewter grey silk. The spooky bird motif is continued in the form of almost life-size brooches perched precariously through the collection.

By peculiar contrast, her menswear has a touch of the Brideshead Revisited with jumpers knotted dandily over shoulders, wide shorts, two toned loafers and serious comb-overs. A contemporary twist is achieved by using pink fabrics and skinny ties.

Words: Maia Adams. Photos: David Jones.