John Rocha fuk@lfw s/s 06

Texture and fabric, both mainstays of Rocha's pretty aesthetic, were out in full force for his spring/summer 06 show at the Natural History Museum tents.

Against a backdrop of off-white, black and slate grey, a palette of coral, yellow and violet worked their magic on a series of richly embellished garments which, despite the obviously labour-intensive methods involved in their production, look fresh and light. The use of hooks and eyes on the seams of skirts and dresses allowed a multitude of silhouettes to be achieved, creating a modern appeal.

Super-rich surface detail is achieved with handcrafted silk panels and strips, jet beads and pearls trapped in ribbons of organza and ragged chiffon strips worked into elaborate hand crocheted collars and skirts. Stitched and laid over one another across jacket shoulders, skirt hemlines and at the ends of sleeves, these richly textural areas look like patches of crazy vegetation, albeit the kind you get in a Tim Burton movie.

Testament to Rocha's eye for design is that despite deploying a whole host of fabrics from crushed lustre cottons and poplins, cool wool and sparkled linen to brocades, silk georgettes, taffetas and guipire, the resulting collection retains its arresting visual appeal yet remains easy on the eye in its simplicity.

Words: Maia Adams. Photos: David Jones.