Roksanda Ilincic fuk@lfw s/s 06

At one point in her life, before fashion called, Belgrade-born Roksanda Ilincic was on track to becoming an architect. This professional training manifests itself throughout her latest collection, most notably in dresses and tiered coats cut from stiff taffeta which stand sculpturally away from the body.

At the other end of the spectrum, Ilincic's first collection to be shown on-schedule (previously Roksanda has been part of Fashion East and also shown independently off-schedule) has designed liquid, silk dresses that cling and ripple with every movement. Part Lanvin, with a dash of Viktor and Rolf, this was a collection that sometimes worked but on occasion jarred. Pleats which had slipped their waistband moorings looked charmingly idiosyncratic, but the ribbon criss-crossed randomly from one shoulder strap to another across the model's bare chest vied for attention with a smattering of fabric roses.

The gathering itself was a civilised affair at the Bibendum restaurant in the elegant Old Michelin Building and, as Wednesday's first show on-schedule, attracted a handful of leading style editors as well as an in-the-pink Zandra Rhodes. These assembled fashion bods were treated to breakfast while they waited, although latecomers unable to find seats had to content themselves with looking on as those more fortunate munched their way through croissants and pains au chocolat.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones