Rubecksen Yamanaka fuk@lfw s/s 06

Rubecksen Yamanaka was established in 2002 by Norwegian womenswear designer Hilde Rubecksen and Japanese knitwear designer Tomoko Yamanaka. The clash of two such distinct cultures has given rise to an aesthetic that is entirely their own. Having succeeded as Fashion Fringe finalists in 2004, the pair decided to stage a stand alone show and the result was an easy-on-the-eye collection that had just enough peculiar details - notably hats stitched into the backs of tops and functionless sleeves knotted backwards over the shoulders - to keep our interest piqued.

The inspiration for Rubecksen Yamanaka's Aloha show included, unsurprisingly, gentlemen's straw hats, raffia skirts, hula girls and Hawaii. The translation of these ideas into garments resulted in a series of lightweight trenchcoats, cotton dresses, circular skirts and sweet jumpers constructed from yarns (silk/cotton, cotton/lurex and cashmere blends) and fabrics (silk/lurex, cotton, muslin and twill) which had been dyed in the couple's signature colours - black, brown, cream, beige lifted with touches of gold. Shapes, incorporated onto the finished garments by mixing knits and weaves, added interesting surface detail.

Words: Maia Adams. Photos: David Jones.