Ann-Sofie Back fuk@lfw s/s 07

As per every other season, and she's now in her ninth, Ann-Sofie Back started her mainline collection show with the final run through which to our mind is a little like reading the end of a book first or someone beating you to the punchline of a joke. No matter, it was an unconventional approach suited to an unconventional designer who this season uses wire mesh as a source of ideas.

Inspired by the artist Barbro Backstrom, she has created a fine metal knit fabric that can be creased and moulded to the body. It appears in loose fitted cardigans, tank tops and hats. It also covers the toes of DM shoes and encases bikini-wearing models. The 'rubbish art' theme continued with accessories by jewellery designer Hussam El-Odeh who had made chicken with bras, shoes, bags and tiaras.

Swollen hems, waistbands and sleeves, inspired by bicycle tyres, pop up here and there and padded breast pockets on a leather jacket and white poplin shirt are designed to question notions of proportion. Jersey fur, leather, metallic finishes, plastic PVC and large-loop rubber knits all add to the dumpster chic aesthetic.

With rave apparently back in a big way, Ann-Sofie has tapped into what she calls a techno hippie sensibility. Her soundtrack was stubbornly old-school acid though, causing those audience members who remembered the second summer love to go all misty eyed.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Judith Erwes