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c.neeon fuk@lfw s/s 07

Wed, 20/09/2006 - 8:30am
BFC Tents, Natural History Museum SW7

c.neeon's ss07 collection is the sartorial manifestation of the way designer Doreen Schulz feels when driving through Berlin. Despite the city being her adoptive home of nine years, she still views it with the eyes of an outsider and through clothes she has found a way to explore the contradictory nature of these foreign and familiar influences.

'Local Foreigner grz vk59' was probably had the strangest collection name of the week and it was pilfered from the accompanying show soundtrack by 'Planningtorock' whose Berlin-based British singer sings of seeing the city through the eyes of a 'local foreigner'. Less literally, the music itself is also re-interpreted by Clara Leskovar (the pattern design half of the c.neeon duo) who has transferred it onto fabric.

In colours of white, navy blue, vivid orange and green, triangular prints and fine lines recur across the garments, and the cuts - often reminiscent of origami - echo their proportions. Silhouettes are closer to the body than in previous collections and the use of fine knits and thin cotton marks a leaning to a more feminine sensibility.

Dresses and tops place the emphasis on the waist and wide pants close with a large bow belt. Skinny shorts have striking folds of fabric worked into pockets and the footless tights look destined to be a sell-out item.

Full marks too, to whoever did the casting. The inclusion among the models some of unconventional, dare we say regular shaped girls, were a breath of quirky but fresh air.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Judith Erwes

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