Fashion Fringe fuk@lfw s/s 07

Historically, we've relied on Fashion Fringe (the brainchild of veteran Sunday Times journalist Colin McDowell) as a creative showcase to uncover new talent. Eager to experience that familiar London buzz, we made our way to the venue full of anticipation. However, no sooner had we entered the hallowed doors of Ken Livingstone's City Hall, our bags were pushed through airport style scanners and we were made to walk through metal detector gates. To say security was tight would be an understatement - more akin to the G8 summit than a genial fashion show! Blame it on the corporate sponsorship if you will, but there was a distinct lack of fashion eccentrics and raconteurs. Although the modernist interior of City Hall was polished, it lacked personality and excitement.

Since its debut in September 2004, Fashion Fringe's £100,000 prize has developed the talents of the mighty Basso & Brooke and Erdem. This year there were four finalists: 6 7/8, Antonio Santana, Gavin Douglas and Stephen Harper. Thankfully, the designers were worth the pomp and ceremony. Watched by a panel, including the venerable Tom Ford, the show opened with design duo Antonio Ciutto and David Wojtowycz, (a.k.a. Six & Seven Eighths). Their respective fashion and fine art backgrounds offering up an intellectual take on cutting and technique.

"It's going to be very French," said Antonio prior to the show - and how! Suddenly, we were transported back to the 1930's; smouldering Parisien-esque models stood resplendent in a heady mix of raven black, incandescent purple and teal with a dose of cream. The styling was inspired; layered felt bowler hats were cut out at the back exposing wild tresses of femme fatale hair. One girl was a dead ringer for Marlene Dietrich; her dress (perfectly executed) clung to her body like the softest liquid silk. This couture inspired collection has sophistication sewn into every seam - scale and proportion are juxtaposed. Dramatic, over-sized skirts and sculpted frock coats sit alongside soft, fluid dresses and frilled stand-up collars. Antonio's recent residency in the V & A, gave him the opportunity to study archive pieces from Balenciaga and Vionnet. As a result, his knowledge of technique is second-to-none. Harvey Nichols would be mad not to snap up this collection.

Next up we saw Antonio Santana, a self-trained Brazilian born designer whose demure collection entitled, 'Who wears the trousers' features muted tones of khaki, mushroom, red and white. Pared down and classic are the phrases which spring to mind here. His collection consists of wardrobe staples with a twist: a skirt is actually a complex pair of culottes, shell tops are left open at the back with intricate pleating usually found on trousers. Elsewhere, a reversible shirt-dress can be worn with the hem buttoned up or down. Reminiscent of Calvin Klein, Santana's work demonstrates clever detailing, but is too safe to be worthy of a Fashion Fringe award.

Stephen Harper (the youngest contestant at 24) trained at Middlesex. Driven by good taste, he likes, "perfectly cut clothes to be worn properly." As you can imagine, edgy was not on his agenda. There are plenty of tailored trousers, cocoon shaped jackets, shift dresses and ostrich feathers, guaranteed to excite a well-heeled, mature audience. It's all a bit Dynasty meets Ascot. Degrees of beige, lilac and khaki are peppered with dashes of sharp lime. His signature piece - a cropped jacket with ostrich feather trim is grown-up but slightly odd, leaving us a tad confused.

Eartha Kitt was the chanteuse of choice for Gavin Douglas (the winner of the competition). He sent models out to the strains of "I'm just an old fashion girl with an old fashioned mind." Hailing from Birmingham, Gavin's inspiration came from an exhibition he saw about black Victorians in England. Putting the f into flamboyant, his collection is interesting and theatrical - cropped palazzo pants are trimmed with gold buttons, lamb of mutton sleeves add volume to shirting whilst billowing floor-length silk dresses remind us of the splendour of Louis X1V's court ladies. Some labour intensive pieces are corseted and embroidered with peacock feathers. As the recipient of £100,000 and the necessary backing to set up and sustain his label, we wish him well. The decision was tight (our money was on 6 7/8 ) and standards high. However, one question remains - is this collection costume or ready-to-wear?

You can watch our interview with Gavin Douglas here.

Words: Bianca Donnelly
Photos: David Jones