Jean-Pierre Braganza fuk@lfw s/s 07

Jean-Pierre Braganza likes a joke. It's a proclivity that manifests itself in many ways, not least on the press releases that accompany his shows where he likes to indulge in a little word play to confuse those of us trying to establish the subtle subtexts in his work.

Plutonicon, for such was the name of Monsieur Braganza's ss07 collection, came about because 'in recognition of astronomers redefining a planet, there arises an aesthetic searching for a neoteric orbit.' Indeed.

Luckily, as they hit the catwalk, the clothes needed no translation. That Braganza's tailoring skills have made a quantum leap since last season (when they were already pretty hot) was evident. That he has found his groove, and honed his aesthetic, was without question. Both men's and womenswear were executed with minimum fuss and the detailing - short puffed blouse sleeves over full-length shirt sleeves, intricate prints and artful creasing - added sophisticated finishing touches.

Key looks include overall-inspired dresses, trousers with elongated straps and little black dresses with origami pleating. His signature trousers with the low-slung crotch came out in denim and linen with accents picked out in leather and the jersey draping that he does so well was at its best when sections of fabric were pulled through strategically placed holes to create volume and shape.

Usually this designer opts for friends as models and Braganza's shows always pull in a cool eclectic crowd of models, musicians and carousers - but this season they were all in the audience and Jean-Pierre employed professional models. It worked - the clothes could be viewed without distraction. Mr Braganza's style is maturing beautifully.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones