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Noel Stewart fuk@lfw s/s 07

Fri, 22/09/2006 - 7:15pm
Chanticleer Theatre, Claireville St, SW7

'Something To Do With Spring' is milliner Noel Stewart's second collection and, we suspect, far from his last. A protégé of hatmaker par excellence, Stephen Jones, Stewart's short but so far stellar career has seen him work alongside the likes of Roksanda Illincic, Roland Mouret, Peter Jensen, Marios Schwab and Erdem to name a few.

The inspiration for this collection comes from Noel Coward's play Present Laughter and through a process of abstraction it moves through flora, fauna and summer parties to collide occasionally with architectural structures.

In colours of pale cerulean blue, mallow white, oyster pink, zinc and laquer black, Stewart's titfers are made from fabrics such as ruched organza, satins and crinolines.

The resulting hats - light-as-air sculptures and whimsical shapes - include multiple bows which sweep across the head, branches hung with catkins that jut from the forehead, 3ft wide gossamer petals and a pretty headpiece of mimosa fronds that wrap around the face like a mask. Our favourite is Honeysuckle, a white dual brim hat which is the simplest but most striking member of Stewart's collection.

It was fitting, given the nature of the spectacle, that it was presented at the Chanticleer Theatre – a tiny, quirky and intimate venue where the spot-lit models paraded their epic headgear on stage. Sat in darkness, members of the audience emitted the occasional 'oooh' or 'aahh' and collectively giggled at the production lady's stage whispered expletives in the face of a minor technical hitch. Perhaps Noel Stewart should consider taking his show on the road.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Judith Erwes

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