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Peter Jensen fuk@lfw s/s 07

Mon, 18/09/2006 - 11:30am
Holland Park Theatre, W8

Peter Jensen's show invitation dropped through the letterbox like a ray of sunshine. From a sunny photo, a squinting, sun-dappled Jensen tempted us with a butter yellow daisy.

It seemed fitting that his show, when it came, took place on a breezy, balmy morning in picturesque Holland Park to a soundtrack of summery pop and tweeting birds.

The collection is quintessential Jensen whimsy. As always, its charm lies in its ability to turn slightly geeky stylings and off-kilter proportions into desirable clothes. This is a designer who likes to subvert form and function, and this time the cardigan comes in for the Jensen treatment. Back-to-front, it creates deep-v backs on knitted dresses, elsewhere shirt dresses and skirts have been cut in such a way that lengths of fabric tie across hips and waists to resemble casually knotted cardi sleeves.

Greys, from palest duck egg to rich slate, dominate the earlier part of the collection of shorts, jackets and pretty blouses. The pace then moves up a notch with brightly coloured pieces including, for men, fuchsia pink shorts and cricket jumpers with sequinned detailing around the neck.

Not everything is entirely practical. High-waisted black trousers will be for the minuscule only (In a week when culture secretary Tessa Jowell called for a ban on super-skinny models, Jensen's catwalk wasn't short of beanpoles) and the bell-shaped skirt made entirely from artificial flowers might be tricky when it comes to sitting down.

This time last year Jensen's 'Sissy' collection was a homage to American actress Sissy Spacek, this year, it wasn't clear who the titular muse of the 'Tina' collection might be. One thing's for sure though, whoever she is - she's one lucky lady.

Words: Maia Adams
Photographs: David Jones

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