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Weardowney fuk@lfw s/s 07

Mon, 18/09/2006 - 7:00am
On|Off, Royal Horticultural Halls

Gail Downey and Amy Wear's sixth catwalk show at London Fashion Week celebrates handicrafts with a nod and a wink to French decadence and Madame de Pompadour. Pure, unadulterated artisanship is at the root of this duo's work. They are committed to crafting clothes and are about to expand their ever-growing empire to include a school dedicated not just to knitting but to a whole range of handicrafts.

With white light flooding the Hall, we were treated to a frolicksome display of cheeky pants, suspenders tied with ribbons, floopy French Maid hats, fitted button-through tops and a series of extraordinary wraps.

As the clothes flash by, it's a challenge to absorb all the details of this work. It's almost impossible to describe the marriage of techniques evident in a single garment as it unravels itself before you. Some pieces look like works of art - embroidered panels merging with handstitches in a huge variety of wools. Others have an antique feel, like lace tablecloths woven by magic spiders.

Fun and versatility reign in this collection: backless pieces that could work with T-shirts, bikini tops which would look great as eveningwear, delicious wraps which you could easily wear with jeans. Stand-outs include a ruched rust top that curved across the body with a tailored technique not ordinarily seen in knit, sun dresses which mixed poplin and wool, delicate cropped jackets, boyish bibbed dresses and knitted aprons.

The models' hair was twisted and teased into natural-looking pony tails - like corn rows after the woman had socialised and slept in them. The look complemented and echoed the knitted stitches and texture of the wool.

With so many strings to Weardowney's bow (a guest house In Marylebone, jewellery range, capsule TopShop collection and a bi-annual magazine) and another strong collection, the House of Weardowney feels like a happy home.

Words: Marian Buckley
Pictures: Judith Erwes

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