Zandra Rhodes fuk@lfw s/s 07

A fine London buzz filled the air as a wonderwoman of print and proper homegrown London fashion designer showed her first collection in 17 years. What can you say? It's Zandra Rhodes. A designer who has helped define British fashion. Even if you don't know Zandra's work as a customer (and she's not all about exclusivity, she has done ranges at Topshop) you will have seen her influences.

The lights dimmed in the hot and rammed, crammed to capacity BFC tent. Scratchy noises, transport sounds and the first of dozens of outfits began to unroll. Having a huge archive to work with, it looks like Ms Rhodes had really enjoyed re-interpreting herself. It's testimony to Rhodes' talent though that this didn't feel like a time warp. Yes, there are classic Rhodes flowing gowns with bold prints but there are also lots of narrower pieces, tops and column silhouttes on offer. The collection has several stages. A series of streety prints on skirts, an almost tribal looking red and yellow print on puffball mini dresses, gingham patchwork tops teamed with printed tights, 3/4 length sleeved light wool jackets which nod to Chanel but in candy colours and with an exaggerated boxy shape.

The mood switched to dreamy and with floaty sounds in our ears we are transported to St Tropez by way of Bermondsey with a capsule swimwear collection, printed bikinis with visors and chiffon jackets with mini hoods and a series of hieroglyphic-style prints. Concertina pleated skirts teamed with the off-kilter 3/4 sleeve jacket is a core look and one Zandra herself sported on the evening. A further mood change and for a while it felt like we were watching a series of giant sweeties waiting to be unwrappd in the form of shiny bronze wrap-around frocks. Then came baby-doll frocks, short whispers of dresses. Although Zandra cites Russia as her main inspiration, there are flashes of Morocco and Egypt with hieroglyphic references on prints and Cleopatra-like neck details.

The ever-changing colour blends throughout this collection are incredible. At times it's like falling into a vortex or a paint mixer - there's also different styles of colour explored, from punkish dayglos to more demure metallics. Stephen Jones' baby straw boaters and Andrew Logans big fat blingy mirrored bracelets both worked really well.

Zandra S/S07 collection can appeal to a range of women customers and, always a bonus, the shapes do not demand that you are stick thin to pull them off and many pieces willl look good on women over 50 (Zandra is 66 and she designs for herself).

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: David Jones