MAN fuk@lfw s/s 08

Such was the crush to get into MAN today that as the show began dozens of eager, ticket-waving punters found themselves on the wrong side of the entrance herded into dividing pens like so many brightly hued sheep. Rubbish for them, photo nirvana for the tabloid paps who went to town on the weird and wonderful freakshow (puke-coloured fur crash helmet anyone) spilling onto New Oxford Street. Inside the mayhem continued with one lady being physically hauled off the front row by a burly bouncer. It was an exciting climax to fuk's London Fashion Week.

On a serious note, we should point out that as a joint venture set up between Fashion East and Topman, this season's MAN delivered on its promise to showcase the best of up and coming British menswear talent.

First up there was a chance to see a video installation by Aitor Throup showing his unique brand of 'transformable outerwear' in a gallery space adjacent to the catwalk. Entitled The Funeral of New Orelans, the funeral procession tradition of the marching bands of New Orleans formed the basis for a range of garments that tell the story of how five members of the band protected themselves and their instruments in order to survive the tragedy. The lofty concept translates into jackets and shirts based on the traditional cut used by the musicians and trousers in increasing states of shrinkage with fully functioning shoe covers designed as protection against shoe stealers forced to sleep in the street after being evacuated. Heavyweight concept; nice clothes. Just the way we fashion people like it.

Then 'Menswear Designer of the Year' Kim Jones launched his KJ by Kim Jones diffusion line. Thanks to a collaboration with Savile Row tailors Norton and Sons this collection is a sleeker take on the sportswear with which Jones made his name and includes handcrafted cashmere and mohair knits, fluorescent-printed seersucker and summer-weight quilting on everything from jogging pants to hats. Specially commissioned shoes and hats added a stylish finishing touch to a line that's bound to earn Jones a host of new admirers.

MAN stalwart Casette Playa's 'Future Primative' collection of cartoon couture was billed as a 'toxicolour uniform for hard boys battling real and virtual worlds'. Taking the colours of sacred rainforest frogs (reds, greens, orange and royal blue) and inspired by Kayapo and African hunting rituals, designer Carrie Mundane came up with striking digital prints that take their inspiration from organic sources such as geology, crystals and volcanos. Washed out global Hypercolour-influenced sweats and limited edition salmon pink Nike Blazers channel Bones Brigade and Santa Cruz-era skater culture adding adding a smattering of questionable 80s trash fash. Spot it soon on a Hoxton trendy near you.

Topman Design showed a collection that plundered the ever-popular Oxbridge culture for fresh references which run the gamut from neatly tailored suits to sportier jersey parkas, popper button jackets and dip-dyed cardis. If the neutral palette of white, light greys, creams and navy and black keep it classic a futuristic edge is achieved using contrasting fabrics (glazed, papery or crinkled), technical sportswear detailing and asymmetric cuts on jumpers.

www.cassetteplaya.com

www.kimjones.com

www.topman.co.uk

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones