Aganovich fuk@lfw s/s 08

Nana Aganovich is a hugley talented designer who always brings intelligence to our London catwalks. Her last showing was for s/s 07 and missing a season really made us eager to see this collection. She first debuted in London as one half of duo Aganovich and Yung - the first collection was Dreams of Beef and was shown in a theatre, and for autumn/winter 06, their last season together, the pair showed First Line of Defence in the Holy Trinity chruch in SW7.

Defence, armour and conflict are at the heart of this 'Force of Victri'. A black Union Jack, the anarchist's flag, hung at the end of the catwalk. The packed show started with the booming voice of Bob Hoskins taken from The Long Good Friday, an inspiring speech in a proper London accent talking about "New Londoners". Then, Linton Kwesi Johnson's dub poem All Wi Doin Is Defendin broke in and the show was off. Brilliant. Not only was everyone captivated and totally in the moment, but Nana Aganovich had laid out her table before us. The race riots, Brixton, Five Nights of Bleeding. LWJ may have been born in Jamaica but his dub poetry and performances have documented what is was like living in the UK in the late 70s and 80s.

The collection is hard, soft, feminine and ultra strong at the same time. The story starts with a blinding white blouse/jacket fusion worn with black 3/4 length satin trousers, heels with ribbons/sashes. A flash of violet on the sleeve of a black and white figure-hugging silk dress signals the introduction of colour: rich hues of emerald green, purple, deep blue and silver all dominate. A red swirl print adds punch, as does a suede bomber jacket with blue and red patches. Several of Nana's pieces this season play with form: the top of a dress takes on the form of a jacket or shirt yet blends effortlessly into being a dress. There are references to Samuri and armour throughout: silver panels, silver chains and leather panels all add military elements. Galmour reigns supreme in Nana's world and luxurious silk dresses which, if it wasn't for Nana's signature details, could be from Hollywood's heyday and worn by Joan Crawford.

Accessories are minimal: ultra long chain earrings and hair pieces and neckerchiefs in deep shades. Aganovich's ss08 woman is a warrior with style and every outfit is a triumph of construction and attitude. This is the only show of the Week I heard the audience break into really loud cheers. When Nana told me she was "a Londoner" three seasons ago, I believed the conviction in her voice. This collection proves it.

www.aganovich.com

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: Ian Gillett