Fashion East fuk@lfw s/s 08

Full marks to the organizers of Fashion East for scene-setting on a major scale. To access the action this afternoon an eclectic crowd of club kids, style editors and fashion students had to first make their way through a rambling, ramshackle east end warehouse taking care not to snag outfits on ragged crates or break heels in the cracked floor. Perils negotiated, goodie bags rummaged, it was on to the main event.

First up came Henry Holland who, after his much hyped debut collection last season, had the most to prove. The general consensus seemed to be that his heavy metal-themed show (inspired by photos of Axl Rose and Stephanie Seymour from the Vogue library) made the grade. To the amped up sounds of Guns n Roses' 'Welcome to the Jungle' Holland's Bessie mate Agyness Dean strutted down the catwalk in a patent maroon and yellow leather studded biker jacket and shorts. What followed included rubber bustiers and leopard swimsuits, sprayed on micro-dresses and 80s shoulder pads a-go-go.

More impressive than that however, is the list of collaborators Holland's managed to rope in. From Katie Hilier (of Marc by Marc Jacobs fame) on jewellery and Mulberry's Stuart Vevers on bags to Linda Farrow Vintage for whom Holland has produced a new range – boy done good.

Noki's show opened with a model sporting a shredded t-shirt with the slogan 'Have you evolved?' Given that what followed was not dissimilar to what underground recycler, 'ragger' and Noki House of Sustainability designer J.J Hudson was doing, ooh, five years ago the answer would be 'not really'. Models sporting pantomime dame wigs, Mad Max makeup and spooky masks came out festooned in ripped, torn and tangled garments that had started life as homages to brands such as Stussy, Evisu, McDonalds and Disney. Accessorised with tendril-like bunches of jersey plaits the effect was, no doubt purposely, quite grotesque. Yes it's fun, yes it's compelling and yes, from all the whooping, clapping and even crying from one overcome lady, it's got its fanbase. But to others in the audience it seemed like a case of the emperor's old clothes.

It may have been Louise Gray's debut LFW collection but this is one designer who's already built a cv which includes freelance embroidery commissions for Lanvin and the sale of her graduate collection to Diane von Furstenburg.

Today, inspired by films, dreams and a 'magpie approach to her everyday surroundings' she sent out a series of pretty chiffon shift dresses in pink, bottle green, gold and orange. Shapes are simple but that's the point: this is an exploration of colour, movement and embellishment where brightly coloured fabric swatches dangle from bits of DIY shop hardware, silver chain tassels shimmer under the lights and unfinished edging adds just the right amount of sass.

www.houseofholland.co.uk

www.fashioneast.co.uk

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: David Jones