Penkov fuk@lfw s/s 08

Bernadett Penkov is a Berlin-based designer, whose London Fashion Week debut collection is inspired by the desert and the flickering lights of the heat waves and modern nomads.

This translated as a delicate, romantic journey to a distant land: it's a truly beautiful collection without being fussy. Her usual palette of earth tones, light-greys, sky-blue, olives and aqua mint are the order of the day for ss08. Dresses are a key feature, voluminous silk dresses with roman-style straps were simply tied round the neck: others were highlighted with ribbons around the waist. There are narrow double-breasted blazers, trousers in skinny, wide cut or cropped. Penkov's tops are loosely gathered round the waist or tucked into trousers, knee length trench coats are worn billowing and undone semi-fitted, uniform-style with raglan sleeves.

Highlights for us include Grecian wrapped cocktail dresses which are hand embroidered with small sliver discs on panels. Her eveningwear is delicate, empire style dresses, with cap sleeves and tied with a sky-blue ribbon that comes in two-tone effect. For daytime there's also loose and casual T-shirts with jet beading on the shoulders.

Other dresses for ss08 include an apron-style semi-pleated short dress which is held together by a single leather strap, wrapped around the neck and tied at the front. In contrast cashmere cardigans with raglan sleeves were relaxed and that come very short and sexy, can be worn on any occasion teamed with skinny jeans or leggings.

Simple, beautiful well-made clothes with clean detailing should ensure Penkov a London following.

www.penkovberlin.com

Words: Marc Bruton
Photos: Matthew Hinshelwood