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Reem fuk@lfw s/s 08

Mon, 17/09/2007 - 10:15am
On|Off, Royal Academy Burlington Gardens, W1

This is the first off-schedule showing for Reem Alasadi and a pounding soundtrack and a series of dark Victoriana creations ensured no one was nodding off this during this show. Reem shared a very specific vision with us: it's ss08 and in Reem's world that doesn't mean wearing clothes that will work when you go to the park, beach, shops, work etc.. In Reem's world clothes are an oblique expression of something really quite sinister. Antique lace mixed with sheepskin and (I had no idea this was going to happen) rabbit fur feature in a series of outfits which are more dramatic costumes that clothes.

Waists are exposed and all the bustle-style 'skirts' start at the hips, which in the case of one model was really quite scary to see as her hips and waist looked so desperately tiny. There are several variations on waistcoats and clever corset references in dresses and tops. Styling included funky top hats, bibs and suede ankle boots. Many of the pieces are constructed to be worn at an angle so there is no denying that Reem is working with architectural principles to deliver something different. Doll's head bags and doll's heads sewn into front bibs on outfits appear throughout. I was put in mind of Victim, and at times I felt like the designer was savaging antique fabrics to forge an apocalyptic vision. However, a Japanese buyer I know told me he loved it and felt it had really strong commercial possibilities! Fashion, sometimes it clicks and sometimes you are left scratching your head.

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: David Jones

WARNING: some images may contain fur.

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