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Spijkers en Spijkers fuk@lfw s/s 08

Mon, 17/09/2007 - 12:45pm
On|Off, The Royal Academy, W1

Last season we were upset not to make the Spijkers en Spijkers show – scheduling conflicts and late running shows kept us away – so we've seen two spring/summer collections in a row. This collection differs widely to their last s/s offering: the silhouette remains much the same but this time round the look is a bit more rock ‘n' roll, a bit edgier.

Models strutted sullenly with pouty mouths and blocked eye make-up (think refined Amy Winehouse). Dresses are short, a recurring pattern for next summer, so a great pair of pins or a fabulous pair of tights is a necessity. Transparent PVC Macs with visible seams mean a bit of good ol' British weather won't stop your LBD from remaining centre stage. Transparency has been a bit of a theme this season with more than a few models bearing all under mesh vests, no bra necessary. Spijkers gave us a welcome alternative with graphic leather shapes appliquéd on their offerings to preserve modesty.

Necklines are made the focal point with tessellated shapes and triangular cutouts the main feature of silky smock dresses. Something the designers always manage to do is incorporate deep pockets into dresses and skirts - great for those moments where you want to appear nonchalant and are keen to play down the super-glamour.

Helping hammer the rock ‘n' roll look home is the emerald PVC mini-dress and a silver bomber, worthy of Barbarella herself. The subtle powder blue leopard print thrown against pinstripes and mustard silk seen on a fluid tunic is surprising but successful.

Spijkers en Spijkers have created a collection that shines but isn't too glossy or polished. You could imagine one of their pieces a bit crumpled or paired with Doc Martens and still remaining über cool. At the risk of descending too far into fandom, Riet and Truus Spijkers always provide the perfect recipe for a beautiful aesthetic: great shapes, quirky styling, amazing colour and a dash of the unexpected.

www.spijkersenspijkers.com

Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: David Jones

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