Unconditional fuk@lfw s/s 08

As we took our seats in the BFC tent for the Unconditional show bird song flitted through the air and ferns lined the stage – a therapeutic way to end the day perhaps, we mused? But no, Jodie Harsh emerged in all her glory to provide the soundtrack and pump up the party atmosphere. Who needs Red Bull as a pick me up when you've got Ms Harsh on the decks?

Despite a sneaky look backstage at what Philip Stephens had to offer, when the clothes hit the catwalk pre-conceptions were all but done away with. A seemingly normal fisherman's jacket hangs by elastic off a male model's shoulders; standard looking cardigans incorporate unique strap detailing and dungarees are pared with pitchforks. And so it was for the 71 outfits, menswear and womenswear; we learned to expect the unexpected.

Unconditional always provides clean, casual clothing that looks like it'd be a joy to wear. Essentially his S/S08 collection is very utilitarian but despite the practicalities of the garments there's always a sophisticated quirk hidden, particularly in the menswear. Zips, straps, poppers and a bit of imaginative styling help keep the clothes transformable and above all, eye-catching. Earthy ochres, damasks and dove greys are punctuated with electric blue and pops of neon green and prints are graphic and clean. A paint splattered top and fern-print tee inject some texture amongst the more simple garments.

The designer gives many variations of his trademark hood – a detachable white version and a dusky pink hooded cardi in loose jersey for the boys and a tactile looking silky parka for the ladies. But if you don't want to be barred from your local shopping centre for indulging in a bit of hedonistic hoodie-wearing then definitely consider one of the bubble wrap peaked caps worn at a jaunty angle – you can't go wrong.

We all know that Stella's the hot ticket this week with her adidas collection but we doubt she's going to take the crown from the reigning urban/sportswear king of London Fashion Week – Mr Unconditional himself, Philip Stephens.

www.unconditional.uk.com

Words: Selene Pearson
Photos: Ian Gillett