Yuko Yoshitake fuk@lfw s/s 08

Japanese-born, London College of Fashion graduate, Yuko Yoshitake stage her off-schedule London Fashion debut in the street. Originally, this show was to take place inside the Beyond The Valley boutique (which has stocked Yuko's clothes for the last two seasons), but the organisers wisely changed their minds and taped some lines on Newburgh's cobblestones by way of a catwalk. People from the pub opposite lined the pavements and the audience sat on benches at the side of the road, sipping Cava and beer. A shop half way down Newburgh provided a temporary hair and make-up studio and the models walked from the shop down to the taped line where photographers gathered.

None of the regular fashion pack attended - Clare Tough was on-schedule and after that people were either collapsing into heaps or those that had a lighter Fashion Week schedule than us, partied in Marylebone library courtesy of Kickers. But there amongst a handful of photographers was Mr Moore. He come to the show off his own bat and Yuko is blessed because he even did her house photos.

SS08 features beautifully tailored menswear and womenswear that has touches of Commes, but with a look all its own. The collection is entitled Computer Love and Yuko takes inspiration from the early days of computer technology: model's eyes were whitened and made to echo a blank screen and keyboard prints and buttons reiterated the reference.

Yuko's clothes are quite androgeneous, but they're still very sexy and modern. Skinny ties, bibs, lurex knitted braces and waistcoats add a masculine feel to the womenswear. It's a very relaxed, wearable collection with drop dead gorgeous pieces including a stunning men's navy trench coat (which would also look great on a girl), an awe-inspiring men's jacket made from video cassette tape, a black and grey block pattern hoody which takes sportswear to another level - there are so many great things here! Yuko combines a light white jacket with tailored sweat pants worn with a baggy pair of silk boxing shorts, in a sleek evening outfit she pairs white tailored trousers with a white T-shirt which has an integrated bow tie, and a black tuxedo.

Yuko's girls also fuse tailoring with streety sportswear: a silk blouson top (which the designer calls a 'rider's top) appears with a sequinned skirt, her black, grey and white shirt dress with cute curved collars is doll-like and tailored shorts, halterneck white vests and slick white trousers add a Chaplin-feel. Accessorised by fat patchwork and silver bags and white nerdy glasses without lenses, this collection is truly clever, beautiful and bang-on for my money.

www.yukoyoshitake.com

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: David Jones