Aganovich

Aganovich shows have built a strong following over the past few seasons and her close-cut powerful clothes are perfect for urban warriors. This season, the label designed by Nana and directed by partner Brook, has upped the ante and positioned itself much more firmly at the luxury end of the fashion market. Entitled 'St Valentine's Day Massacre', the thinking stems from how Aganovich woman wouldn't be sitting at home waiting for flowers to arrive on Valentine's Day nor is she fooled by the commercial exploitative nature of the marketing of 'love' for one day of the year. Ms Aganovich is out on the streets, strutting her stuff and, in some outfits it seems, marching to the beat of her own drum.

The show started with a beautiful tiered traditional wedding dress and veil - very unlike Aganovich outfits we've seen before. This bridal serenity is quickly subverted by fast-walking focused women with robotic metallic faces. Coats dominate - cashmere and gold speckled tailored affairs with neat fastenings. The look was dominated by exaggerated shoulders with nipped -in waists. Wide-legged wool trousers with off-centre seams and zipped pockets encapsulate what Nana is doing here - taking her strong sculpted approach to the body and translating it into more luxurious fabrics and softer colours than in prervious seasons. Zipped coat dresses have strong impact but would also work well worn over jeans. In-keeping with her move away from kebabs towards caviar, she has inserted panels of snake and fish skin into many outfits. There was an almost Russian military feel to pieces and wool rather than silk is the key fabric this season.

Words: Marian Buckley
Photos: Christopher Dadey