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Jean-Pierre Braganza

Sun, 10/02/2008 - 11:45am
Mango, Oxford Street W1

Jean-Pierre Braganza always enjoys penning a neologism when naming his collections and for his long-awaited, much deserved on-schedule debut he came up with Thermacolyte – a prophetic choice given the super-hot spotlights blazing over the catwalk and the audience spattered with skinny-trousered, shaven-headed young male followers who have styled themselves in the image of their favourite designer. If imitation is the highest form of flattery, Mr Braganza should be chuffed indeed.

Adding to his reasons to be proud was widespread praise from the likes of Colin McDowell for a collection which demonstrated this young designer's demon way with a needle and thread. Tailored to perfection, garments were cut and constructed to achieve both curve-hugging fit and rigid volume.

Prophesing to be "repeatedly drawn to gothic, heavy and extreme imagery but always with the undercurrent of romanticism" these were clothes for the inhabitants of an uncertain cybernetic future. Twisted seams and oversized piping meander around the body on both mens' and womenswear while the anatomical details of human musculature are suggested with contrasting fabric panels and violent fuchsia plaid erupting against the austere black and grey palette.

It is worth noting that the seeds of this aw08 collection were sown at last year's Australian Wool-Sponsored Protégé Project in which Braganza was patronised by none other than Karl Lagerfeld. With talent like that giving their seal of approval it seems the sci-fi loving Braganza is about to go stellar.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Ian Gillett

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