Krystof Strozyna and Meadham Kirchoff

Krystof Strozyna

Reprising the aesthetic first explored in his MA collection last year, Krystof Strozyna took his cue from Epstein sculptures – transposing the linear qualities and angles of the artist to the construction of his clothes. Polish Strozyna does a nice line in stiff cotton dresses engineered in such a way that that slices of solid panelling and jutting wings create an eyecatching, sometimes jarring, silhouette.

Inspired by Victorian mourning jewellery, outsized, curiously moulded accessories and detachable brooches embellish the garments while lacquered wooden pieces trickle down fabric channels like metallic coated vertebrae, or burst from underneath flaps along the collarbone. Theatrical, eccentric, interesting; with a little more variety Strozyna could be about to make his mark.

Meadham Kirchoff

On first sighting the heavily tattooed, pierced and brooding Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham come across as a little scary. Get them talking though and you couldn't wish to meet two nicer young men. It's a bit like that with their aw08 collection. It's challenging, it's unexpected it's a touch aggressive – and we love it.

With urban sophistication in mind Meadham Kirchhoff have explored the ways in which technology can bring a contemporary feel to their ideas of traditional femininity. Chuck in a few subtle Elizabethan references, a dash of strict tailoring, and just a hint of the pair's penchant for all things gothic and the result is a series of the staples fit for a sophisticated, powerful city women's wardrobe.

With echoes of Prada (notably in the juxtaposition of technical and luxury fabrics) the resulting long hobble skirts, tops seamed with wetsuit tape, sexy motorbike jackets, Mongolian lamb chubbies and sharp two-piece suits marked this out as one of the most exciting debuts of the week.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Ian Gillett