MAN

It's been three years since Topman and Fashion East got together to create a dedicated menswear event at London Fashion Week and this year was, without a doubt, the strongest outing yet with three new designers afforded the opportunity to showcase their wares.

As the designer of Kesh, one-time Super Super fashion editor, tv star and DJ, 21-year old Kessiah channelled her intimate knowledge of London's youth culture to create a line of rude boy-style streetwear that has made fans of Kanye West, Mariah Carey and rap star Lupe Fiasco. Tracksuits, hoodies, appliquéd apples – it's bright, in your face and will probably sell by the truckload. Are we the only ones feeling a little inadequate?

Next up, James Long, showed a somewhat bonkers collection that had a touch of the S&M about it. While leather harnesses and a sheepskin (straight) jackets probably won't be the average guy's choice of attire for a trip down the pub or the weekly shop there is something kinkily appealing about the way he combines materials such as leather and sheepskin with gauze netting and plastics to create 'battle-ready, hard silhouettes'.

Fellow Royal College of Art graduate and former Diesel designer, Hans Christian Madsen, gave us his own brand of military-inspired, minimalist sportswear. Like a nice boiled sweet, this works on a 'hard with a soft centre' principle: highly protective outerwear layered over fine knit garments including v-neck jumpers, cotton tees and unfinished edges that hint at the rough and tumble elements of '50s youth culture and Marlon Brando in his Wild One hay days.

Bringing up the rear, Topman Design adopted a similarly urban stance. Such has been the success of Topman's exclusive range of more individual design-led pieces that the line recently scored itself a concession in Selfridges. And with the weather turning brass monkeys this week the oversized knitwear, voluminous parkas and wooly green long johns will keep boys, and their bits, toasty warm.

Words: Maia Adams